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Kampong Cham » Kampong Cham

Kampong Cham

 00:00:00 | 4.19.2012


Kampong Cham is the third largest city in Cambodia and the capital of the province with the same name. This city has yet to be heavily touristed like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It carries with it plenty of colonial French charm, and has a genuine "wild west" feel to it. Most travellers who do find themselves in Kampong Cham are in transit to elsewhere in the country, but those that choose to spend at least a couple of days in the provincial capital will enjoy the laid back atmosphere and quaint charm.

Cambodia Travel Riding the ladder wagon Kampong Cham copyright Don Pirot.jpg

Most people in Kampong Cham are of course ethnic Khmer, but there is a sizeable Cham minority in the province's towns, including a disproportionately high number of Muslims and Christians.
Because there is little foreign investment and no large scale tourism (almost every foreigner who comes here will be a backpacker), this city is very poor with few modern buildings, though not lacking in French architecture from the colonial period. However, with the completion of a modern two-lane bridge across the Mekong, the city has begun a slow recovery from decades of irrevocable decline. The people of Kampong Cham are (like all Cambodians) very friendly and open to engaging with tourists.

Kampong Cham isn't a city chock full of tourist attractions, but it's colonial charm and atmosphere will endear itself to you. There are a few temples to see in the area, including one of the country's mass graves.

Nokor Wat. An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a Monk has to unlock it for you to enter. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. To get there by bicycle follow the road to Phnom Penh for about 1 km and turn left when you see a dusty road going down through a gate (there's also a sign). The tourist police may ask you for money for their own purposes. If you are stingy, you can enter the temple from the other side for free. Don't miss the beautiful sunset in the old Angkorian ruins. The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to the mountains Pros and Srei.

Wat nokor.jpg

Traditional dances in Nokor Wat
If you are interested in traditional Cambodian dances, there is a daily performance at 5 p.m. (except Sunday) in the Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a Non Governmental Oranization (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. No need for reservations.

Pros and Srei Mountain are priced in every tourist guide, however actually nowadays they are only two 'brand new' concrete buildings on the top of some small hills. If you don't have too much time, it's better to head for Phnom Hanchey, which is about 8km from the city.
Located 25km north of Kampong Cham, Phnom Hanchey is another temple on a hilltop in the area. The view of the beautiful Cambodian landscape that you get when you go there however is certainly worth it! If you can make it up very early (around 5am) you'll see a gorgeous sunrise over the Mekong that will be on your right side all through the way.
There is also a French lookout tower on the other side of the river, once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, however.

An abandoned US airstrip that has been used by B52 bombers is a short distance west of town. To get there take the Highway 7 to Phnom Penh for about 3 km. Just before the factory on the left hand side (looks a bit like a prison) there is a dirt road going to the right between street vendors and two red-white striped poles. Follow this road for about 2.5 km. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it - a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kampong Cham.



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